Vehicle Safety Questions
On September 1st, 2003, a new element of the driving test entitled was introduced. You will be asked two questions on ‘vehicle safety’ at the start of your test. It’s important for you to realise
that being completely unable to answer any of the questions here will not affect your chances of passing in the slightest. The worst that can happen, is that you’ll get two minors before you even get into your car. And you need a massive sixteen minors to fail! So why am I bothering to go through each and every one of the twelve combinations of questions with you?
Well, since this e-book is entitled “How To Pass Your Driving Test At The First Attempt…With Just Two Minors”, I feel obliged to tell you just that! And of course, I’m just a really nice guy…
Engine oil levels
This really is very straightforward. When you open the bonnet of your car, look for what is known as the dipstick. In a lot of new cars, it’s usually a nice bright colour to identify it from everything else, and in some cases it even says ‘engine oil’ on it. Now, how easy is that to find? If you can’t see it in your car for whatever reason, then you need to ask someone. Once you’ve located the dipstick, pull it out of its tube, and wipe it clean of oil with a towel/cloth/whatever. Look for the maximum and minimum marks towards either end of it. Now, to check the oil level of the car, re-insert the dipstick into it’s tube and pull it out completely. The oil level will be clearly visible, and if it’s too low, then you should perhaps think about topping it up before your test. Obviously, if you’re taking your test in your instructors car then you won’t have to worry about this.
So, once you’ve opened the bonnet, point out the dipstick to your examiner. Then say:
“To check that the engine has sufficient oil, I would remove the dipstick and wipe it clean of all oil. Then I would gently slide it back into
it’s
tube and this would tell me the oil level of the car. If the oil level is below the minimum mark, then I would have to add some oil.”
………….or words to that effect anyway. I think you get the picture.
Power Steering
Now I know I said this was easy, but I’m sure you weren’t expecting it to be this easy! To check that the power steering is functioning, there are two different things you can do, and all you have to do in both of them is simply turn the wheel.
1) When the engine is running, a gentle turn of the wheel will make a noticeable difference to the positioning of the wheels (how obvious does that sound). If the power steering is not functioning, no difference would be observed.
2)Turning the wheel immediately after moving off will provide a clear indication if the power steering is working.
Just say either of the above to your examiner if you get asked this question.
By the way, for those of you who have never driven without power steering, it’s a lot harder and tougher, so you’ll know straight away if it’s not working for some reason. You are still liable to get asked this question even if the car you’re driving doesn’t have power steering, so be warned.
Engine coolant level
A common cause of breakdowns is when the engine is overheating, and this is what coolant (a mixture of water and antifreeze) is supposed to prevent. So it makes sense to check your engine coolant levels every now and again. Once you’ve opened your bonnet, you need to look for the coolant reservoir. Again, this isn’t hard to spot, but if you’re unsure in any way about where this is, just ask someone.
Anyway, the coolant reservoir has minimum and maximum levels just like the dipstick, and in most cases, you can clearly see how much coolant is present. If the level of coolant falls between the minimum and maximum levels, then there is an adequate amount to prevent the car from overheating. If the level is below the minimum, then you should fill it to the maximum level with the maker of the cars recommended water/antifreeze mix.
If you have no idea of the insides of a car and how it functions, you may be feeling a little bit daunted right now. The truth is, however, that every question in the “show me, tell me” section of the driving test is very straightforward to answer as long as you do a small amount of research beforehand.
Check the handbrake for excessive wear
When you apply the handbrake, it shouldn’t reach its full length of travel. By this I mean, you should be able to imagine it being pulled up further were it to wear a little.
You should demonstrate this to your examiner. The handbrake should also secure the car on an incline, but obviously, you probably won’t be sitting on an incline at the start of your test. Basically, if your car has a good strong handbrake, then anyone who is in the car can feel that it secures the car when you apply it. So just demonstrate this to your examiner if he asks you to do this. How easy is that!
Windscreen washer reservoir
It’s a good idea to know how to do this, as having a dirty windscreen really can reduce your view by quite a bit. Again, the windscreen wash reservoir is not hard to spot under the bonnet. Notice the graphic on the top. To check if there is a sufficient amount, aside from peering into the reservoir itself, just go inside the car and spray some water onto the windscreen. If you don’t know how to do this, you usually use the same lever as you do to operate the windscreen wipers, but you just push/pull it forwards instead of whatever you normally do. It really isn’t hard. As every car is different, make sure you’ve asked someone with knowledge of the car you’ll be driving before you come to your test.
Check that the horn is working.
Now, at first you may think that there must be something more to this than simply pressing the horn, but you’d be wrong! Some cars require that you switch on the ignition before you sound the horn, but aside from that, there is nothing more to it. Can you imagine getting a minor for this? “Oh…………..I’m not sure how to use the horn…………. never mind.” Your examiner must then be inclined to ask how you are supposedly ‘test ready’ without even knowing how to sound your horn! Anyway, moving on……….
Check that you have a safe level of hydraulic brake fluid.
Now, I know I’ve already told you that you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding the appropriate features under the bonnet, and if I was to tell you this again, you would be inclined to think that you might get them mixed up. This is why you really do need to get someone to show you where everything in the bonnet of your car is located if you don’t already know yourself. Which,lets face it, you probably don’t. If you have a driving instructor, your best bet is to ask him/her. Anyway, the brake fluid reservoir also has maximum and minimum levels so you can see how much is present. If there is not enough present then, yep you guessed it, you need more brake fluid. It’s all so easy!
Check that the indicators are working.
You know how to turn on your indicator, right? Well, just go into your car and flick it on, either left or right. Now, get back out of your car and see if the indicator lights are flashing. If they are (both the front and back indicators), then go back in and check the same with the other indicator. Alternatively, if you can’t be bothered with going in and out of your car, just put the hazard warning lights on! The hazard warning lights flash all four indicators at the same time, so you can check your indicators by walking around your car when they are on. Oh, but make sure you don’t run to get a packet of crisps before you turn them off again………
Check that the brake lights are working
At first, this may sound slightly stupid, as how are you supposed to check your brake lights when you have to be inside the car for them to come on? Unless you happen to have a brick handy to place down on the brake pedal (which,lets face it, you won‘t have), there is no way you can carry out both actions at the same time. There answer is possibly even stupider. You are supposed to make use of “reflections in windows/garage doors etc”. So, if you’re anywhere near a window or a garage door, then you have no worries. However, if you have no such luxury, then just ask your examiner to get out and take a look himself. It doesn’t seem to occur to anyone that it could actually be impossible if you were by yourself without any garages or windows, but hey……
Check the handbrake for excessive wear
When you apply the handbrake, it shouldn’t reach its full length of travel. By this I mean, you should be able to imagine it being pulled………………
That’s right, we’ve just been through this about a page and a half ago. If you hadn’t realised then shame on you! As you can see, the so-called “twelve different combinations” do not contain twenty-four different questions as you may have originally thought. In fact, they begin repeating themselves by combination five!
Check that the brakes are working before starting a journey.
The important part here is “tell me…”. This means that you don’t actually have to show the examiner how to do this, as this could be quite difficult. So you should say the following to him:
“The brakes should be tested just as you move off to ensure they are functioning correctly. Also, if the car appears to be pulling over to one side when the brakes are applied, then an imbalance between the brakes exists and needs to be rectified. If the brakes feel slack or spongy, then they are unlikely to be working at maximum efficiency.”
“Well………..when you move off you should, ermmm………apply the brakes to make sure that they’re ok, and then if the car moves to either side then………emmmmmm…..…….there could be a problem and you should go to a garage. Oh yeah, and if they feel ‘slack’ or ‘spongy’, then they’re bust.”
As long as you get the main details in, then your examiner can have no qualms, however nervous you nay seem!
Check that the headlights & tail lights are working.
Are you noticing a re-occurring theme to these questions yet? That’s right, they’re all really easy! And they don’t get much easier than this. Turn on your lights, get out of your car and see if they’re working. Simple as. Recommended tyre pressures and how they should be checked.
The first part of this question is straightforward, but the second part is possibly the hardest question of the lot (but it’s still easy to answer). The information for the recommended tyre pressures of the car can be found in the manufacturer’s guidebook for the car. So how should the tyre pressures be checked?
If you look at the wheels of your car (or any car) you’ll notice the valve. It has a cap that you can remove to check the pressure of the tyres. You probably won’t know what this is just by reading this, but if you have a look at the wheels of a car you should notice it straight away. Anyway, tyre pressures can be checked at most petrol stations, which will have compressed air available to inflate the tyres Firstly, remove the cap from the valve and secure the airline in place onto the stem of the valve. A pressure gauge, usually located on the pump housing will display the pressure of the tyre. Do this on every tyre, and don’t forget the spare wheel in the boot! You can also buy a digital pressure gauge in order to check the pressure of your tyres from home, but you must make sure it’s reliable before you use it. Say the following to your examiner:
“I would find the information for recommended tyre pressure in the manufacturer’s guide, and it is ………To check the tyre pressure, you should firstly remove the valve caps, and use a reliable pressure gauge to determine the pressure. Do this for every tyre including the spare, and remember to refit the valve caps afterwards.”
You’re not required to tell your examiner what the recommended pressure for your tyres is, but it won’t do you any harm by telling him. If you want to do this, have a look in the guide book, or ask your examiner.
Check that the indicators are working.
Check that the tyres have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road. (Tell me)
Again, tell me rather than show me, making it a lot easier.
“The tyres should have no cuts or bulges. The minimum legal tread depth is 1.6mm; this should be across the central ¾ of the breadth of each tyre, and around the entire outer circumference.”
………or words to that effect.
Check that the headlights & tail lights are working.
The remaining four combinations are just different combinations of questions that we’ve already been through, but here they are anyway………
Check that the tyres have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road. (Tell me)
Check that the horn is working.
Engine coolant level
Power Steering
Engine oil levels
Check that the headlights & tail lights are working.
Engine coolant level
Check that the headlights & tail lights are working.
………..and all that for the sake of a couple of lousy minors. What is this world coming to?! It’s important for you to realise that if you make a mistake in this section of the test, your chances of passing aren’t significantly reduced in the slightest. If you’re confident in your own ability to drive (and this is important), then you shouldn’t lose any sleep over these ‘vehicle safety’ questions. If you think you did get a question wrong, then make sure you don’t let it get to you; remember, you don’t fail for getting a question wrong, even if you don’t know how to use the horn!
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